Re: Schematic for H-H-H, 5 way blade, push/pull coil tap?
Check PM ...
I must infer that this is directed to me ... That line frequency question was just idle curiousity as civilian aircraft are set up the same way (if what I read was correct), I was just wondering why, but I understand completely ... say no more ...
Please don't throw that term *treble bleed* around unless it's correct, in this case it is however (some people use the same term to describe a treble bypass, drives me up the freakin' wall).
That's optional, it's just to make the split humbuckers sound a bit more stratty ... The 102 is just a starting value, go up or down to taste, within say ... roughly +/- 100%. If fine tuning it, try to find some B tolerance caps, at least 200V ceramics (should be real easy to find, don't go below a J tolerance though).
On one you connect the tone circuit to the same lug as the source (pup), on the other you connect it to the lug that the source is not connected to ( this is referred to as the *'50's wiring* or *'50's mod* ). Check in *the vault* section of the forum, there should be a set of graphs there that I did plotting the results of the two wiring styles. The '50's wiring retains more high end as the volume control is lowered, there is a small trade off in overall tone control range in regard to maximum attenuation levels.
Okay Artie, do I get to rag on him for not paying attention to the older subject studies in EE ? :laugh2:
That's three digit picofarad code ... The first two digits are the significant digits and the third is the exponent ... hence 102 is 10 * 10^2 =1,000pF, or 1nF, or .001uF; 223 is 22*10^3 = 22,000pF, or 22nF, or .022uF.
The tolerances you'll run across in guitar use are normally J= +/- 5%, K= +/- 10% ... Small value caps are easy to find in a B tolerance, which if memory serves correctly is like +/- .25pF (I never pay attention that that one anymore, I just use it ... mental blinders I guess).
Also, in this case the capacitor on the tone control can come before or after the pot itself, makes no difference.
DracoAran said:Yeah man, definitely. Just send me an address.
Check PM ...
As far as what you asked me, I am can't answer people anything, even if it's something simple.
I must infer that this is directed to me ... That line frequency question was just idle curiousity as civilian aircraft are set up the same way (if what I read was correct), I was just wondering why, but I understand completely ... say no more ...
Now, what is the advantage of that capacitor hooked to the dpdt?. Is that the treble bleed mod?.
Please don't throw that term *treble bleed* around unless it's correct, in this case it is however (some people use the same term to describe a treble bypass, drives me up the freakin' wall).
That's optional, it's just to make the split humbuckers sound a bit more stratty ... The 102 is just a starting value, go up or down to taste, within say ... roughly +/- 100%. If fine tuning it, try to find some B tolerance caps, at least 200V ceramics (should be real easy to find, don't go below a J tolerance though).
If I understand correctly, the tone pot can be wired to the volume or the jack terminal, correct?.
On one you connect the tone circuit to the same lug as the source (pup), on the other you connect it to the lug that the source is not connected to ( this is referred to as the *'50's wiring* or *'50's mod* ). Check in *the vault* section of the forum, there should be a set of graphs there that I did plotting the results of the two wiring styles. The '50's wiring retains more high end as the volume control is lowered, there is a small trade off in overall tone control range in regard to maximum attenuation levels.
I don't quite get the values of the caps either. I usually see some microfarad value.
Okay Artie, do I get to rag on him for not paying attention to the older subject studies in EE ? :laugh2:
That's three digit picofarad code ... The first two digits are the significant digits and the third is the exponent ... hence 102 is 10 * 10^2 =1,000pF, or 1nF, or .001uF; 223 is 22*10^3 = 22,000pF, or 22nF, or .022uF.
The tolerances you'll run across in guitar use are normally J= +/- 5%, K= +/- 10% ... Small value caps are easy to find in a B tolerance, which if memory serves correctly is like +/- .25pF (I never pay attention that that one anymore, I just use it ... mental blinders I guess).
Also, in this case the capacitor on the tone control can come before or after the pot itself, makes no difference.