i need some recommendations on how i should set up my tremelo style bridge on my strat. is it better to have the bridge flat against the body or should i set it up on an angle so theres a gap at the back of the bridge. i know its all a matter or preference, i'd just like some other oppinions.
tremelo bridge setup
- Thread starter beni
- Start date
Re: tremelo bridge setup
I say go with the bridge flat to the body
I have a Standard America Strat. I have the bridge set flat against the body so that I can only drop pitch with the Bar. Also I can go to Dropped D tuning and the guitar doesn't go outta tune. When I break a string the rest of them stay in tune.
Setting your bridge up so there's a gap , "Floating", has the disadvantages of going outta tune more easily, you can't dropp D without having the other strings out of tune. The benefit is that you can us the bar to go up and down in pitch.
I say go with the bridge flat to the body
I have a Standard America Strat. I have the bridge set flat against the body so that I can only drop pitch with the Bar. Also I can go to Dropped D tuning and the guitar doesn't go outta tune. When I break a string the rest of them stay in tune.
Setting your bridge up so there's a gap , "Floating", has the disadvantages of going outta tune more easily, you can't dropp D without having the other strings out of tune. The benefit is that you can us the bar to go up and down in pitch.
Jeff_H
Dean Hardtail Fanologist
Re: tremelo bridge setup
When installing a new bridge or checking the set-up of your current bridges, I recommend the following:
On vintage styled bridges the pivot screws need to be down almost to the top plate. I screw the screw down until it touches the plate and lifts the back off the body. Then back the screw off until the plate rests back down on the body. You should feel small movements, side to side and forward and back of the bridge. It pivots fully up and down. Too far down and the bridge will bind. Too far away and the bridge will slide up the screws. Both mistakes cause tuning problems.
I recommend a minimum of 4 springs for the bridges. They should be set so that if you are doing double stop bends, the guitar remains at pitch. This means the top plate will have a slight pressure against the body. Sorry no pull ups with a vintage bridge, unless you can live with pitch problems.
When installing a new bridge or checking the set-up of your current bridges, I recommend the following:
On vintage styled bridges the pivot screws need to be down almost to the top plate. I screw the screw down until it touches the plate and lifts the back off the body. Then back the screw off until the plate rests back down on the body. You should feel small movements, side to side and forward and back of the bridge. It pivots fully up and down. Too far down and the bridge will bind. Too far away and the bridge will slide up the screws. Both mistakes cause tuning problems.
I recommend a minimum of 4 springs for the bridges. They should be set so that if you are doing double stop bends, the guitar remains at pitch. This means the top plate will have a slight pressure against the body. Sorry no pull ups with a vintage bridge, unless you can live with pitch problems.
STRATDELUXER97
Stratoblaster Tone Meister
Re: tremelo bridge setup
A Properly set up strat should have the bridge floating between about 1/8 to 3/32" off the back of the bridge measured from the bridge to the body depending on what bridge you have..Learning how to play a strat this way is one of the quirks of a strat...This gives you both upward and downward tone changes...I don't like my strat bridges laying flat on the body and they weren't and aren't setup that way straight from Fender,but this is just me! :13:
John
beni said:
A Properly set up strat should have the bridge floating between about 1/8 to 3/32" off the back of the bridge measured from the bridge to the body depending on what bridge you have..Learning how to play a strat this way is one of the quirks of a strat...This gives you both upward and downward tone changes...I don't like my strat bridges laying flat on the body and they weren't and aren't setup that way straight from Fender,but this is just me! :13:
John
Bludave
New member
Re: tremelo bridge setup
It depends on how you use it. If the bridge is floating and you break a string, your dead The guitar is completley out of tune. If the bridge is set to rest on the body when you break a string you can still play because the bridge is stable. I would recommend to set it to rest on the body for the above reason, If you decide to get it to "float" consider using graphite bridge saddles, and nuts. This will eliminate almost all string breakage. I have done this on one of my strats and it works real well, I have also installed sperzel locking tuners. This also eliminates the strings from slipping!! LOL
It depends on how you use it. If the bridge is floating and you break a string, your dead The guitar is completley out of tune. If the bridge is set to rest on the body when you break a string you can still play because the bridge is stable. I would recommend to set it to rest on the body for the above reason, If you decide to get it to "float" consider using graphite bridge saddles, and nuts. This will eliminate almost all string breakage. I have done this on one of my strats and it works real well, I have also installed sperzel locking tuners. This also eliminates the strings from slipping!! LOL
Zerberus
Baron Von Shred
Re: tremelo bridge setup
My "factory" setup on new axes with vintage tremsis usually what SD97 recommended, unless the customer specifies otherwise.
My personal guitars with vintage trems ALL have the plate resting flat on the body for 2 reasons: 1. Better tonal transfer, the guitars are noticably fuller and more "alive", 2. Tuning. I break strings pretty often on a strat, and a floating bridge would be my downfall. Interestingly enough, I have NO breakagetroubles with Floyds or tune-o-matics, just with vintage trems. And Yes, I already Use Graph-Tech saddles
My "factory" setup on new axes with vintage tremsis usually what SD97 recommended, unless the customer specifies otherwise.
My personal guitars with vintage trems ALL have the plate resting flat on the body for 2 reasons: 1. Better tonal transfer, the guitars are noticably fuller and more "alive", 2. Tuning. I break strings pretty often on a strat, and a floating bridge would be my downfall. Interestingly enough, I have NO breakagetroubles with Floyds or tune-o-matics, just with vintage trems. And Yes, I already Use Graph-Tech saddles
Vasshu the humanoid typhoon
Unseen
Re: tremelo bridge setup
Hmm I used to have my setup for floating......but I got sick of the drr drr drr when playing rhythm
And I also only use two springs now, since I went back to 0.09's again.
I have done it all, everything from 0.13-58 to 0.09-42 and in normal pitch.
One more thing I changed was to remove the two centerscrews..made the bridge wander more smoothly up.
The thing just felt more connected when it was flat on the surface, as for the stringbreaking...my guitar just wents as bad out of tune flatmounted as with a floating
bridge...the tension just dissapears....pling!
Hmm I used to have my setup for floating......but I got sick of the drr drr drr when playing rhythm
And I also only use two springs now, since I went back to 0.09's again.
I have done it all, everything from 0.13-58 to 0.09-42 and in normal pitch.
One more thing I changed was to remove the two centerscrews..made the bridge wander more smoothly up.
The thing just felt more connected when it was flat on the surface, as for the stringbreaking...my guitar just wents as bad out of tune flatmounted as with a floating
bridge...the tension just dissapears....pling!
L
Lewguitar
Guest
Re: tremelo bridge setup
Do you only want to ONLY lower the pitch? Then set it flat.
Do you want to pull up on the bar and raise the pitch too? Then don't set it flat.
( I prefer it flat...with a 3/8" wood block wedged into the back of the guitar so the thing won't move at all! )
The six screws that hold the bridge plate or base to the body: raise the middle four just a little so they aren't sitting tight against the bridge plate. Then adjust the two outside screws to set the position of the bridge that you want: either flat or not. Then, I'd lower the middle four screws again but stop just before the underside of the head of each screw reaches the surface of the bridge plate.
That way the vibrato is mostly riding on the two outside screws. Seems to stay in tune better.
Lew
Do you only want to ONLY lower the pitch? Then set it flat.
Do you want to pull up on the bar and raise the pitch too? Then don't set it flat.
( I prefer it flat...with a 3/8" wood block wedged into the back of the guitar so the thing won't move at all! )
The six screws that hold the bridge plate or base to the body: raise the middle four just a little so they aren't sitting tight against the bridge plate. Then adjust the two outside screws to set the position of the bridge that you want: either flat or not. Then, I'd lower the middle four screws again but stop just before the underside of the head of each screw reaches the surface of the bridge plate.
That way the vibrato is mostly riding on the two outside screws. Seems to stay in tune better.
Lew
