Tuning stability on a Blacktop Stratocaster

spleenharvester

New member
I have a 2010 Fender Blacktop Stratocaster in cherry (MIM). The tuning stability isn't terrible but it could certainly be better - it only takes one overly hard strum on the E string to knock it way out of tune.


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Was wondering where to start re upgrades, it's all stock Fender hardware. Am I right in thinking the tuning heads are the best way to start? What brand would you all recommend?
 
I am a huge fan of Sperzel locking tuners. I have them on a lot of guitars. However, on one of my MIMs I have Fender locking tuners on another, I have Guitar Fetish locking tuners. I put the Guitar Fetish tuners on because I had them laying around and put them temporarily on a build knowing I would replace them later. That was 10 years ago and they are still on the guitar. I have had no problems with them whatsoever.
 
I am a huge fan of Sperzel locking tuners. I have them on a lot of guitars. However, on one of my MIMs I have Fender locking tuners on another, I have Guitar Fetish locking tuners. I put the Guitar Fetish tuners on because I had them laying around and put them temporarily on a build knowing I would replace them later. That was 10 years ago and they are still on the guitar. I have had no problems with them whatsoever.

Thanks v much, will look at these

Is it properly set up? That "overly hard strum" is not causing some binding at the nut, or a similar issue - is it? Just do not want to see the parts swap expense if it is not necessary.

That has crossed my mind, I might take it somewhere to get it professionally set up. I'm a bit crap at anything other than truss rod adjustments set-up wise to be honest.
 
You also might want to consider a new bridge. I am a huge fan of Babicz. They are pricey tremolos, but if you are budget concerned, they have a Z-Series that is very budget-friendly and has all of the features of their more expensive bridges.
 
nut and tuners are the first things id check, as mentioned. its possible the bridge could be part of the issue but fairly unlikely.
 
Yeah, any friction points should be looked at. I like the Graph-Tech stuff, but it does slightly change the sound of your guitar.
 
i dont usually have tuning issues at the bridge but i do have breakage issues. even my les paul has graphtech saddles for that reason
 
Are you properly stretching the strings when you change them? After that, the setup issues like nut, bridge, etc... I wouldn't go changing hardware until you understand what is going on, you may be replacing the wrong parts.
 
Suggesting hardware change as the first solution to tackle tuning issue is a dumb idea, must be the setup, check friction points as some suggested. I have a Mexico Strat with the same hardware as yours, never have any tuning issue.
 
ive definitely had old, cheaper tuners start to slip. friction points are absolutely the place to start as long as you are doing a good job of stretching the strings once you put em on.
 
i dont usually have tuning issues at the bridge but i do have breakage issues. e

My MIM Strat had a horrible bridge that would not reset properly when I used the term. If I tuned it up and played, no problems. If I touched the bar it was a guess as to where the tuning would land. That is when I got the first Babicz.
 
im not a big trem user so that usually isnt an issue for me, but obviously could be for those that do
 
I've decided I'm gonna start by replacing the tuners with Sperzel Trim Loks, and get a set up done while I'm at it. Is it worth replacing the nut too? Going to hold off on upgrading the bridge for now as they are expensive!
 
How do you use the bridge? Block, deck, float, use it, ignore it?

First step is ALWAYS the nut. It needs to be cut well and lubricated.

My main Strat is an odd amalgamation of MIM neck (like the Hendrix model but pre branding) meaning MIM nut and vintage style tuners, and post-2008 American Standard trem (so 2 post and stamped saddles). After cutting the MIM nut and lubricating it, the guitar stays in tune fantastically for everything except really crazy dive bombs.

So yeah, polish and lube the nut and other friction points first and see where you end up before replacing hardware.
 
How do you use the bridge? Block, deck, float, use it, ignore it?

First step is ALWAYS the nut. It needs to be cut well and lubricated.

My main Strat is an odd amalgamation of MIM neck (like the Hendrix model but pre branding) meaning MIM nut and vintage style tuners, and post-2008 American Standard trem (so 2 post and stamped saddles). After cutting the MIM nut and lubricating it, the guitar stays in tune fantastically for everything except really crazy dive bombs.

So yeah, polish and lube the nut and other friction points first and see where you end up before replacing hardware.

Cheers, bridge is blocked, I never touch the whammy. I've lubricated the nut previously but didn't seem to affect much. I've got budget to replace everything except the bridge anyway so I might just get it all done in one go to save hassle. I'm pretty good on the electronics side of things but absolutely hopeless when it comes to any kind of woodworking, so I prefer to get someone else to do it!
 
the guitar stays in tune fantastically for everything except really crazy dive bombs.

This is the issue I was having with mine. Since adding the locking tuners and the Babicz I can go as crazy as I would like and it always comes back perfectly in tune.
 
The likely culprit is the nut slot and the bridge saddle groove. clean those and make sure they are the correct width and depth first

Great upgrades for a Strat?

I'd get a Graphtec nut and saddle which are amazing for tuning stability -as the are made of a graphite lubricant -in 2015 -2018 I was flying to gigs all of the time and my guitar could stay in tune when in the belly of the plane or carryon despite the change in pressure.

Next I'd so Sperzel lockers (my favorite 6 inline machine heads) -or the Schaller made Fender lockers.
 
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