UGH- never again.
- Thread starter AmirH
- Start date
AmirH
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
I used a kitchen knife :laugh2: and rubbed it for a bit with a length of the string. Didn't need to widen it THAT much, but it did the job in about 10 minutes.
Can someone PLEASE tell me if I ****ed my nut up? I'm hoping to switch back to regular slinkies with no issues. All I did was widen the bottom nut slot slightly.
Fiber-Optics said:
I used a kitchen knife :laugh2: and rubbed it for a bit with a length of the string. Didn't need to widen it THAT much, but it did the job in about 10 minutes.
Can someone PLEASE tell me if I ****ed my nut up? I'm hoping to switch back to regular slinkies with no issues. All I did was widen the bottom nut slot slightly.
BigBazz
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
i find it easy, since 2 of my guitars that have the really thick strings have locking nuts, in which any string size fits perfect, i used to play my strat without locking the locking nut and just didnt use the trem and it seems that i can use any string guage without worrieng about nut problems.
though not everyone has or likes locking nuts
Fiber-Optics said:
i find it easy, since 2 of my guitars that have the really thick strings have locking nuts, in which any string size fits perfect, i used to play my strat without locking the locking nut and just didnt use the trem and it seems that i can use any string guage without worrieng about nut problems.
though not everyone has or likes locking nuts
rinse_master
Member
Re: UGH- never again.
I tried the 11-52 & 11-56 of the slinky's (not even & beefy, I think), the thickness wasn't a problem, but the plain G string on both wasn't very nice.
I tried the 11-52 & 11-56 of the slinky's (not even & beefy, I think), the thickness wasn't a problem, but the plain G string on both wasn't very nice.
Gearjoneser
Gear Ho
Re: UGH- never again.
Ideally, to widen nut slots, it's best to have real nut files. However, most players aren't gonna run out and buy $90 worth of files just to work on 1 nut.
I've found that using a gray piece of fine grain sandpaper and creasing it in half works for D-E strings, and on the heavy strings........use automotive feeler gauges or a piece of guitar string with the gray sandpaper folded around it's edge. If' you're fairly adept at doing precise jobs like this, go for it. If you ever go back to light strings again, you can do it if the slots were only widened for 49-50. If you're using really fat strings, you'll need to install a new nut, so the new strings aren't bouncing around in the wide slots. Whatever you do, don't forget to straighten your neck using the truss rod and re-intonate the guitar after you change ANYTHING regarding strings. And I wouldn't recommend stepping up to fat strings if your guitar his a skinny neck like an Ibanez Wizard neck. Schecter necks or fatter can handle it.
Ideally, to widen nut slots, it's best to have real nut files. However, most players aren't gonna run out and buy $90 worth of files just to work on 1 nut.
I've found that using a gray piece of fine grain sandpaper and creasing it in half works for D-E strings, and on the heavy strings........use automotive feeler gauges or a piece of guitar string with the gray sandpaper folded around it's edge. If' you're fairly adept at doing precise jobs like this, go for it. If you ever go back to light strings again, you can do it if the slots were only widened for 49-50. If you're using really fat strings, you'll need to install a new nut, so the new strings aren't bouncing around in the wide slots. Whatever you do, don't forget to straighten your neck using the truss rod and re-intonate the guitar after you change ANYTHING regarding strings. And I wouldn't recommend stepping up to fat strings if your guitar his a skinny neck like an Ibanez Wizard neck. Schecter necks or fatter can handle it.
AmirH
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
Oh dear... I only widened the bottom slot slightly- but it WAS for a 54...
And whats this jazz about straigtening the neck with the truss rod? WAY over my head. It's a nice fat epi neck, so I don't think it'll warp with thicker strings, but please explain in detail, this concept of straightening and intonating the guitar. For me intonating meant tuning with... with the tuning pegs. :laugh2:
Gearjoneser said:
Oh dear... I only widened the bottom slot slightly- but it WAS for a 54...
And whats this jazz about straigtening the neck with the truss rod? WAY over my head. It's a nice fat epi neck, so I don't think it'll warp with thicker strings, but please explain in detail, this concept of straightening and intonating the guitar. For me intonating meant tuning with... with the tuning pegs. :laugh2:
Quencho092
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
i just got not even slinkies and they feel pretty nice. I got used to using my spare G strings as E strings so they werent that difficult to adapt to.
about your truss rod, fret 1st fret and the fret at the neck joint. If you see a big gap between your 8th or 7th fret and your fat E string while doing this, your neck has too much bow from string tension. Just turn your truss a notch clockwise, (Detune before) retune it and wait a bit for the neck to settle down. Then fret the 1st fret and the fret at the neck joint again and check the distance between the E string and your 8th fret. If it's pretty close but not touching, you're good.
Lot's of people like a bit of neck relief though, but too much can't be good for the neck wood.
i just got not even slinkies and they feel pretty nice. I got used to using my spare G strings as E strings so they werent that difficult to adapt to.
about your truss rod, fret 1st fret and the fret at the neck joint. If you see a big gap between your 8th or 7th fret and your fat E string while doing this, your neck has too much bow from string tension. Just turn your truss a notch clockwise, (Detune before) retune it and wait a bit for the neck to settle down. Then fret the 1st fret and the fret at the neck joint again and check the distance between the E string and your 8th fret. If it's pretty close but not touching, you're good.
Lot's of people like a bit of neck relief though, but too much can't be good for the neck wood.
BigBazz
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
basecly when you change string guages the intonation needs to be checked and often adjusted. to check it, get a tuner and plug in your guitar tune the open note or the harmonic at the 12th fret to the tuner then check the fretted note at the 12 fret, it should also be in tune, if it isnt then the intonation is out. if the fretted note is sharp then you must move the saddle away from the neck or backwards closer to the bridge to lengthen the string, if the fretted note is flat then you must shorten the string by moving the bridge saddle closer to the neck or "forwards".
basecly when you change string guages the intonation needs to be checked and often adjusted. to check it, get a tuner and plug in your guitar tune the open note or the harmonic at the 12th fret to the tuner then check the fretted note at the 12 fret, it should also be in tune, if it isnt then the intonation is out. if the fretted note is sharp then you must move the saddle away from the neck or backwards closer to the bridge to lengthen the string, if the fretted note is flat then you must shorten the string by moving the bridge saddle closer to the neck or "forwards".
Gearjoneser
Gear Ho
Re: UGH- never again.
Nah, this is something you've got to learn. Better sooner, than later.
To make sure the neck is right.....hold down the low E at the 1st fret and the 14th with your right hand. Between the top of the 7th fret and the E string, there should be just a glimmer of light.....barely enough to slide a thin pick between the 7th fret and string.
To learn how to intonate your guitar, go to the Vault and check out Rainmaker's post on Intonation. I wrote a whole page on how to do it yourself. If your guitars aren't intonated perfectly, they'll always sound out of tune and play poorly.
Nah, this is something you've got to learn. Better sooner, than later.
To make sure the neck is right.....hold down the low E at the 1st fret and the 14th with your right hand. Between the top of the 7th fret and the E string, there should be just a glimmer of light.....barely enough to slide a thin pick between the 7th fret and string.
To learn how to intonate your guitar, go to the Vault and check out Rainmaker's post on Intonation. I wrote a whole page on how to do it yourself. If your guitars aren't intonated perfectly, they'll always sound out of tune and play poorly.
Quencho092
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
piss-poorly to be exact. my other guitarrist can't intonate his epiphone SG special and it always sounds like ass. im going to do it for him next jam, it's just plain painful and sloppy sounding...
piss-poorly to be exact. my other guitarrist can't intonate his epiphone SG special and it always sounds like ass. im going to do it for him next jam, it's just plain painful and sloppy sounding...
AmirH
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
Looks like I've got something to do this weekend then! Yikes- seems almost intimidating to me. Hope I get the hang of it. And could ya clarify- is it something thats done on a set neck guitar as well? Haha, man I feel like a newb all over again- I don't even know the terminology
google don't fail me now!
Looks like I've got something to do this weekend then! Yikes- seems almost intimidating to me. Hope I get the hang of it. And could ya clarify- is it something thats done on a set neck guitar as well? Haha, man I feel like a newb all over again- I don't even know the terminology
google don't fail me now!
Gearjoneser
Gear Ho
Re: UGH- never again.
Look at the little bolts that adjust the travel of your bridge saddles. Intonation is when you adjust all those so that every note on the fretboard reads dead center on your tuner. If any notes on a string are flat, that string's saddle needs to go closer to the neck. If any of those notes are sharp, the saddle needs to go away from the neck. In between any saddle adjustment, you have to retune all the open notes.
Look at the little bolts that adjust the travel of your bridge saddles. Intonation is when you adjust all those so that every note on the fretboard reads dead center on your tuner. If any notes on a string are flat, that string's saddle needs to go closer to the neck. If any of those notes are sharp, the saddle needs to go away from the neck. In between any saddle adjustment, you have to retune all the open notes.
AmirH
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
OH! Okay- man, I messed that low string up bad then. I raised put it all the way back hoping it would stop the buzzing :smack: So that's what I'll be adjusting... and the height of the action- ie the little hand screwed part under the bridge, does that do anything but raise and lower the action? And I'm right about not having to adjust the neck on the set-neck one right? Or did I miss the point there too? In my mind I'm gonna be taking the bolts off the sg...
Gearjoneser said:
OH! Okay- man, I messed that low string up bad then. I raised put it all the way back hoping it would stop the buzzing :smack: So that's what I'll be adjusting... and the height of the action- ie the little hand screwed part under the bridge, does that do anything but raise and lower the action? And I'm right about not having to adjust the neck on the set-neck one right? Or did I miss the point there too? In my mind I'm gonna be taking the bolts off the sg...
BigBazz
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
intonation has nothing to do with the neck, leave it where it is, somtimes adding heavier strings can bend the neck in which case you would need the trust rod adjusted but none of this has anything to do with taking out the neck bolts, look at your bridge, the saddles with the strings going through, you adjust them in the way that i said earlier/ the way that gearjoneser better explained so that the harmonic at the 12th fret reads the same as the 12th fret fretted and both are in tune, after you adjust the intonation you will need to retune that string to check it.
intonation has nothing to do with the neck, leave it where it is, somtimes adding heavier strings can bend the neck in which case you would need the trust rod adjusted but none of this has anything to do with taking out the neck bolts, look at your bridge, the saddles with the strings going through, you adjust them in the way that i said earlier/ the way that gearjoneser better explained so that the harmonic at the 12th fret reads the same as the 12th fret fretted and both are in tune, after you adjust the intonation you will need to retune that string to check it.
HarrisonDavid
New member
Re: UGH- never again.
11-50DRs! I have played them all! DR is the brand of string i'll buy now. Not two heavy and light. Just perfect if you won't to go standard tuning. No fn with the Nut. It holds well in C tuning and dropping the C to B. Anything below that sounds like crap Anyhow.
I have used a 10-60ZW boomer that was good too but I was afraid to tune to E on that one. I still don't feel comfortable on sanding or routing my nut slot so I will stay clear from heavier guages. Maybe the future though.
Besides I write some pretty heavy stuff tuning to C and drop B tuning. Some of the heaviest riffs I have ever heard though are in standard. People forget how to be DYNAMIC anymore these days!
11-50DRs! I have played them all! DR is the brand of string i'll buy now. Not two heavy and light. Just perfect if you won't to go standard tuning. No fn with the Nut. It holds well in C tuning and dropping the C to B. Anything below that sounds like crap Anyhow.
I have used a 10-60ZW boomer that was good too but I was afraid to tune to E on that one. I still don't feel comfortable on sanding or routing my nut slot so I will stay clear from heavier guages. Maybe the future though.
Besides I write some pretty heavy stuff tuning to C and drop B tuning. Some of the heaviest riffs I have ever heard though are in standard. People forget how to be DYNAMIC anymore these days!
Similar threads
