I recently bought my first set of replacement pickups and wanted to install them myself. I researched a little and most people seemed to recommend the 60% tin 40% lead solder so I got that with a 30 watt soldering iron. When I got home I realized the iron said lead-free solder recommended. What would happen if I ignored this and used the 60/40 solder? The iron came with some lead-free solder but I've heard it's harder to work with. As a first-timer I'd like to make it as easy as possible.
Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
- Thread starter brando455
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Rockstar216
New member
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
Lead free Solder has a higher melting point then lead solder I believe.
Lead free Solder has a higher melting point then lead solder I believe.
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
I always use 60/40 rosin core solder. Lead free is harder to work with because it has a higher melting point (requires more heat). It's not the best to use for guitar electronics soldering if you are a beginner, especially with only a 30 watt soldering iron...you will have a tendency to leave the iron on the back of the pots too long to get the solder to flow like water. As a result you may end up frying a few pots.
I always recommend using at least a 40 watt iron and preferably a 50 watter.
It's also easier if you use a soldering flux paste.
I always use 60/40 rosin core solder. Lead free is harder to work with because it has a higher melting point (requires more heat). It's not the best to use for guitar electronics soldering if you are a beginner, especially with only a 30 watt soldering iron...you will have a tendency to leave the iron on the back of the pots too long to get the solder to flow like water. As a result you may end up frying a few pots.
I always recommend using at least a 40 watt iron and preferably a 50 watter.
It's also easier if you use a soldering flux paste.
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
Only if you plan on eating it.....a lot of it.
Only if you plan on eating it.....a lot of it.
darthphineas
New member
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
I do what the voices in my head tell me. if they are silent, then I listen to Google.
I do what the voices in my head tell me. if they are silent, then I listen to Google.
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
There is an argument for having soldering irons of various wattages for specific tasks. e.g. In unskilled hands, an iron hot enough to de-cover humbuckers is likely to melt plastic insulation material.
There is an argument for having soldering irons of various wattages for specific tasks. e.g. In unskilled hands, an iron hot enough to de-cover humbuckers is likely to melt plastic insulation material.
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
Melted insulation? Oh the horror... No wait, more like "well yeah, big whoop, so what?"
Melted insulation? Oh the horror... No wait, more like "well yeah, big whoop, so what?"
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
Any iron hot enough to melt solder is hot enough to melt plastic insulation.
Any iron hot enough to melt solder is hot enough to melt plastic insulation.
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
Somebody who works quickly and tidily will be alright. A newb could struggle to make a neat job of things.
Somebody who works quickly and tidily will be alright. A newb could struggle to make a neat job of things.
L
Little Pigbacon
Guest
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
More heat applied to wire tips and other connection points is more likely to conduct enough of it along the wire to melt the insulation without touching it with the iron. The trick is to get in and apply enough heat in the right places to get the work done quickly, and then get out.
More heat applied to wire tips and other connection points is more likely to conduct enough of it along the wire to melt the insulation without touching it with the iron. The trick is to get in and apply enough heat in the right places to get the work done quickly, and then get out.
Myaccount876
Amira-Maker
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
I use lead free solder, no problems.
I'd say 30W to 40W is optimal. Too low, and you'll slow-cook any switches and pots trying to solder grounds. Too high, you'll just fry other parts right away.
Melted insulation is also annoying and sloppy.
I use lead free solder, no problems.
I'd say 30W to 40W is optimal. Too low, and you'll slow-cook any switches and pots trying to solder grounds. Too high, you'll just fry other parts right away.
Melted insulation is also annoying and sloppy.
Re: Using 60/40 solder with an iron recommended for lead-free?
I likes my 30w/130w switchable solder pistol w/ turbo trigger. $19 from frys electronics. Solders waaaay better than same wattage "pencil" types, doesn't burn through anything when i dont want it to, heats up quick, far easier to handle (for me, ymmv), and turbo is real nice for desoldering or preventing cold solder joints on common ground pots.
Solders super neat. Nothing cooked yet, half a dozen guitars fully redone at least. Even handled reflowing caps on an amps PCB just fine, and afaik, i used 130w TURBO mode. Fears of cooking/melting crap are overrated imho! Sorta like truss rod panic...
I likes my 30w/130w switchable solder pistol w/ turbo trigger. $19 from frys electronics. Solders waaaay better than same wattage "pencil" types, doesn't burn through anything when i dont want it to, heats up quick, far easier to handle (for me, ymmv), and turbo is real nice for desoldering or preventing cold solder joints on common ground pots.
Solders super neat. Nothing cooked yet, half a dozen guitars fully redone at least. Even handled reflowing caps on an amps PCB just fine, and afaik, i used 130w TURBO mode. Fears of cooking/melting crap are overrated imho! Sorta like truss rod panic...
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