What's the best Floyd Rose-type unit?

MikeRocker

What's Your Forum Nameologist?
Hi all, I am actually considering, heaven help me, putting together a Floyd Rose-equipped guitar, and I'm wondering what the best current Floyd-type vibrato unit option is? Obviously, the priorities are tone, performance, and durability. If I end up doing it, I don't want to go with a cheaper/compromised type FR, but I also am definitely not interested in dropping $1500+ on the rare earth, hardened vibranium (see what I did there? Vibr...never mind...) or whatever version. Having said that, I am interested in any more-or-less reasonably priced upgrades that make a significant difference, if anybody has any suggestions. It seems like there are several options out there these days...the original FR, the subtly named (oof!) FU Tone, Schaller (LockMeister?)...or others? The unit would be installed on probably a swamp ash body, and would also be down only, not recessed/set up to raise pitch.

If I do end up pulling the trigger on this, I am pretty much decided on a Floyd, so, with total respect to Kahler or whatever else fans, I'm really just seeking out FR-type advice. Thank you for any input!
 
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I'd say just get an Original Floyd Rose, or a Schaller Lockmeister, which is identical except for the logo, and can often be found cheaper than the OFRs outside of North America. You can obviously get bigger trem blocks and other upgrades (or so they are called) for them, but at present I would rather suggest that you don't overthink it. Just get an OFR and enjoy years if not decades of incredible tuning stability.
 
These are priced well at Warmoth.
https://www.warmoth.com/Genuine-Floy...-P545C693.aspx

One option worth mentioning is the push-in style arm (FRTAPIP) from Floyd Rose.
It's cheap and also has a slightly different pitch. The first bend by where it inserts is from a higher point but the bend itself is heavier to compensate.(meaning the bar runs flatter in it's middle section). The second bend looks very close to a standard, but it starts from that slightly flatter angle. The bar tips end-up at almost exactly the same height off the strings.


IMO it's like halfway between the standard OFR arm and that of the edge-pro on ibby prestiges (second bend is flatter too on edge-pro arms, and they sit just a hair lower overall).
 
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The Gotoh GE1996T is also a nice trem. It comes stock with a brass block, locking studs, has a flatter string radius than an OFR iirc, pop in arm, and bevelled saddles. Companies like Suhr and Vola opt for this bridge when using a double locker. I believe the original EVH Music Men also had them.
 
OFR. I recommend black or chrome. IME, the nickle finishes start to wear off, the other colors may suffer similar fate.
 
Wilkinson VS-100 is made better in my opinion, easy to install, and performs as well as a Floyd for half the price.
 
Ibanez LoPro Edge (the original Gotoh Japan one)

If you go with OFR, spend the $30 and get titanium saddle blocks (the cube things that lock the string in), the steel ones are machined atrociously and too soft - first they dent from strings, then get deformed trying to get the dented thing to still grip, and finally just get stuck and become a PITA to remove.
 
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The Lockmeister used to be about 30% less expensive than the OFR, but now the prices are ridiculous, at least here in the U.S. I'd just get an OFR if I needed a Floyd at this point

Alternatively, I've always liked the Gotoh version (GE1996T). Very nicely made and close to half the price of an OFR
 
IMO it's worth the extra $80 to get the German OFR because all the screws and fine-tuner's threading are better on it.

The Gotoh does make up for some of that by having the brass block and push-in arm, but those are things that could be swapped anyways depending on taste.
 
Isn’t a Lockmeister just an unbranded OFR?

Well, yes, but I factor the cost of buying the unit when I decide whether something is better than another. I literally bought two LM dfor the price of one FR about two years agoro, and here in Europe, even now the former is, at least, depending on the finish, about 1/3 cheaper than the latter.
 
How would you compare it to the Gotoh GE1996T?

The Kahler is machined steel instead of cast, I have found in particular the knife edges to be much more durable. While it is rare the machined saddles also fail less as in ive never had a kahler saddle fail but ive had others fail, ok not on a gotoh but on a schaller and Ibanez pro i have.
 
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