Will this hold up / New Problem with Floyd

[Aceman]

So, I have never had this happen before...

I broke a string on a Floyded Strat. Thing is - the string broke BEHIND the locking nut. This occurred after I had loosened and a made a tuner-adjustment. I assume the lock nut “bit” the string and it broke on the crimp.

Anyway - the guitar is in tune, I bent the string a few times, seems to be working tip top. Should I be worried about this, or just rock on?

 

[Jack_TriPpEr]

I don't have an answer about your question, but one part of it raised my curiosity: why did you unlock the nut just to make a fine tuner adjustment? The Floyd system is designed to support tuning tweaks via the fine tuners without having to unlock the nut.

 

[Bogner]

Hmm...so you have a string break between your nut and the tuning pegs? The locking nut will hold the string as long as you are easy on it and the locking nut is tightened reasonably. Too often the nut gets tightened too much and sometimes causes the crimping of the string. It is also possible that metal has a slight burr or rough spot somewhere. Getting rid of that will be a huge help if there is a rough spot. Additionally, I know it is a locking nut but I always put a dab of nut sauce or some type of lubricant or fine layer of chap stick or something to alleviate the metal upon string aspect. Be sure not to over tighten the locking nut as there is a fine line from locked to stripping it out. As long as it is snug and you don't go crazy on bends or up pull's you should be able to play on the broken string.

 

[Chris Pile]

Behind the locking nut, Ace?

 

[alex1fly]

I don't have an answer about your question, but one part of it raised my curiosity: why did you unlock the nut just to make a fine tuner adjustment? The Floyd system is designed to support tuning tweaks via the fine tuners without having to unlock the nut.

On my Floyd axe sometimes I loosen the locks when I need to retune enough that the fine tuners are going to go too far in one direction - I like to keep those puppies in the middle-ish of their travel range. Then again I'm only a year deep with this guitar so that may not be the best strategy. But it seems to work okay. Every time I re-do the locks, I wonder about the strings getting pinched under the locks and if that'll cause a break. So far no breaks.

 

[devastone]

I usually try to do the same thing, I kinda keep the fine tuners in a reasonable area of their range, but I'm not OCD about it, but the way Ace stated it was kinda confusing so I assume that is what hen meant.

To Ace's question, rock on until you run out of fine tuner range or the string lets go then change the whole set. Would I play a show with a broken string, no, not at all.

 

[Artie]

On a side note . . . when the time comes to change that string, you may want to wear safety glasses, and stand back. When you loosen that locking nut, that string is going to snap out of there like a psychotic hypodermic needle.

 

[Mincer]

I would usually just play it until it breaks in the important part. If I have other guitars, I'd choose those for rehearsals or gigs. If you are sitting down to watch something *and* have a spare string, I'd change it (or if the rest of the strings need to be changed).

 

[Aceman]

I don't have an answer about your question, but one part of it raised my curiosity: why did you unlock the nut just to make a fine tuner adjustment? The Floyd system is designed to support tuning tweaks via the fine tuners without having to unlock the nut.

Bad typing. Regular tuner adjustment....Tightened up the string, adjusted the fine tuners to an ideal position (meaning high to be able to tune up as string stretches over time).

 

[Aceman]

Behind the locking nut, Ace?

Yep

 

[Aceman]

This is a real damn shame. For a $299 Jackson (retail that I paid $21 for...) It has really been holding the tuning well, and I've been floyding wayyyy more than I usually do...

 

[Aceman]

I may just give a little light file run on the edges there just in case when I do change strings.

 

[ErikH]

Definitely be careful when changing that string. That sucker is gonna fly. Don't crank down the lick nut clamps. There's no need to really clamp them down. That's a common mistake many make. It only needs to be snug enough to keep the strong from moving there. It's worth going over the groves of nut to make sure there are no burrs. Use a q-tip to go over them and see if there are any snags. File down (with a fine file) until smooth. And again, don't over tighten the clamps.

 

[Chris Pile]

Yep

I had a client who snapped the peghead off his Hamer Steve Stevens one night when he twirled a bit and hit a cymbal stand. He was horrified when he saw the peghead flopping back and forth on the peghead veneer, but finished playing the gig. I glued it back the next day, and touched up the finish. Never even loosened the strings.

 

[Masta' C]

Loosen that string at the fine tuner as much as possible and then simply pull the bridge forward (dive bomb style) as you loosen the locking nut to change the string. You can also bend the bridge forward and place something under the back of it to support it in the forward position to relieve string tension and free up the extra hand. No big deal.

As for the breakage, possibly a weak spot in the string and/or a result of tightening the clamps too much and/or a burr on the metal surfaces.

 

[Securb]

Just put on another string you cheap bastard and move on.

 

[beaubrummels]

I'd just play it a while, then replace it. Unless I had a gig, the see Securb's advice.

 

[Aceman]

Just put on another string you cheap bastard and move on.

This more than anything...

I'm just gonna loosen the string from behind the locking nut.

 

[GuitarStv]

Live dangerously . . . cut the other five strings above the nut.

 

[Aceman]

By the way - done. There was no explosion, no mega thwap whack zinggg or any other Batman sound effects.

Twisted the nut a touch, 'clink' string went slack, pulled it out.

I'm really enjoying playing this guitar, so, replacing a 9 with a ten.