No, as the name implies it's an oil-based protection for wood, it's transparent (actually darkens the wood just a bit) and it's meant to be only the most basic (but still adequate) of protections. It's also what lets the wood breathe the most.thanx man, is this tru-oil some kind of primer? can i apply paint after wards?
A stupid idea : what if i just paint it with black permanent marker? That's what i did with the area around the bridge.
I am telling this, because i have no place for spraying, etc... and chemicals are strictly forbidden in the house, is there a fast and dirty, yet realiable way out of this?
A stupid idea : what if i just paint it with black permanent marker?
Thanx Jon.
Don't thank him! Thats a bad idea and you know it haha.
Have you got any mates who spray cars?
I picked up some hammer-finish paint last night as walmart and krylon had paint-on enamels and poly paints sitting right next to the cans. I assume Greece has similar ability to get hobby paints.
Testors model paints man. Be sure to also buy a primer. put on a couple coats of primer to get a nice even surface. wipe it down to clean dust after drying then apply a layer of black model paint. wait for it to dry, sand with high grit sandpaper to buff the shine off, put on another layer. do it again. then again. then again. Then sand with wet very high grit sandpaper and do it again. Then sand, then buff with a rag and buffing compound. Just like painting a car old-school, none of this single-spray undercoat and clearcoat business. layer after layer of enamel, baby.
sealers and primers: oil on acrylic is all right. acrylic on acrylic is all right. oil on oil is all right. acrylic on oil will fail.
I also have to admit, your worry has me worried. Technically speaking, it's pretty easy to cover up a denuded chunk with some black paint but your trepidation on the subject makes me worry that you'll freak out and half-a$$ it.
Just don't half-a$$ it!