Do you prefer locked or standard tuners?

CarlosG

Active member
I just did some test. I loosened the string so much that the windings on the key were loose. Then I tuned it, made a sharp bend, checked how much it went out of tune, and then tuned it again until it stopped going out of tune.
I then repeated the test on the same strings with locking keys. The locking keys performed slightly better.
I repeated the test with regular tuners. This time, I loosened the string slightly so that the strings were still tightly wound on the tuner. This time, I didn't notice any difference between the locking and non-locking tuners.
My verdict is that for a fixed-bridge guitar, where we occasionally tune down, it doesn't matter whether we have locking or standard tuners. However, for tremolos and powerful dive bombs, locking tuners fare slightly better.
Personally, I'd choose standard tuners for a fixed bridge, as they're more robust. With locking tuners, I've had strings break at the tuners. Sometimes I might have overtightened them. If I tightened them too loosely, they could fall out. I even had a Gotoh SG 381 with a loose tuning machine knob. However, if it were a guitar with a tremolo, I'd probably choose locking tuners.
I didn't understand before why so many musicians prefer traditional tuners on their fixed-bridge guitars. Locking tuners supposedly hold the tuning better, lol. Now I know. I also enjoy the process of changing strings, when you can perfectly wind the strings onto the tuner. With locking tuners, I'm never sure if I've tightened them properly.
What are your experiences?
 
I have lockers on a couple guitars, they are faster for a string change and that's the only difference I've ever noticed.
 
I have locking tuners on a few fixed-bridge guitars, I play fairly aggressively and find the tuning stability much better.
 
I think I'm with the OP on this. If your nut is well cut, I don't find any difference between locking tuners and standard tuners in regular playing so I don't really care either way. That said I prefer a locking nut for whammy use, it performs better than both options.
 
I use stock tuners unless I have obe break. I have 3 axes Ive put sets on. 2 broke and one axe I ended up with a set of Schallers that needed a home.
Im convinced that 80% of tuning problems are the strings getting wrapped wrong. Use a Luthiers Knot sure fire way to eliminate strinh slip on the peg
and check that the tunets are tight every once in awhile
 
I get satisfactory tuning stability out of my way of stringing on the tuner and the nut lubricant.

I am concerned that heavy tuners change sound. Some lighter (aluminium?) locking tuners were a bit too inexact for my liking.
 
If the tuners work... I use whatever is on them. If I need to upgrade them, I generally get locking just for slight time saving and easier string chages.

I've used non brand and branded. Not picky really.
 
On my own stuff, I only change them to locking for ease of string changes. I have one client who insists that locking tuners reduce sustain because there are fewer string wraps around the post. I remind him that he owns exactly ZERO guitars with locking tuners, and thus has no proof.
 
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Lockers by far. The absolute best I have ever used are the factory tuners on the mid 90's Washburn USA guitars built when Grover Jackson was running that shop. Pretty sure they were built to spec by Ghoto and are unique to those guitars. Size of a Schaller mini lock from the top of the post and have a slot. You only use the slot with a coin to unlock them though. To string these up, simply align the hole with the string, pull the string taut and simply tune to pitch. They self lock and no matter what never move once you get the string stretched and locked. My Washburn's with the Wilkerson 100's are every bit as stable as any guitar with a Floyd even under some extreme use. They never budge even dive bombing, slapping to get a flutter etc. That plus this system is much smoother and more articulate than any floyd system other than maybe the Ghoto. It is the equal in feel and stability to my Kiesel Delos system with their locking tuners and a Ghoto 510.
Gohoto once sold a locking tuner that was very similar to these but don't know if they are still available. Over the years I have been able to pick up one NOS set of these tuners plus a partial set for any parts I need.
 
On my own stuff, I only change them to locking for ease of string changes. I have one client who insists that locking tuners reduce sustain because there are fewer string wraps around the post. I remind him that he owns exactly ZERO guitars with locking tuners, and thus has no proof.
Lol. Does he realize that sustain varies from guitar to guitar, fret to fret, and note to note because instruments are made from an inconsistent (but awesome) natural material?

I don't think locking or standard tuners will fix a dead sustain zone on any guitar.

His theory would be extremely difficult to prove, but not impossible.

I'm not saying he's crazy, but I just don't buy it. Most of the time, the biggest factor in sustain for any individual guitar is as simple as a proper setup. With the right setup, each individual guitar will achieve the maximum sustain its potential allows.

Outside of that, the instrument itself will always have inconsistencies. There will be some sweet spots and there will be some meh spots. It happens. It's rare to find a guitar that has perfect sustain all along the neck, on every string.

So, locking or standard tuners won't sway the sustain argument one way or the other for me. Some of the old cats get great sustain with over-wrapped standard tuning posts while many modern players get incredible results with lockers.

Not even locking tuners can compensate for the heat transfer between your hands and the strings. As you play, you're going to have to check tuning once in a while until the heat transfer completes.

If you're playing a live gig, the heat transfer intensifies as the joint gets packed and hotter. Sweat it out and tune up. It's what you do no matter what tuners you have.
 
I've never felt the need to replace non-locking tuners on a hard tail unless the quality was poor...in which case I'd be inclined to replace them with non-locking tuners.

As a matter of preference though I do prefer the combination of locking tumers with a vibrato/trem to hard tails.
 
Locking, for ease of use, although, if the winding is correct and with few turns on the post, I don't find so much difference in tuning stability
 
Steel strung guitar is by far the easiest instrument to restring. I like locking tuners for convenience, but in the grand scheme of things, even non-locking tuners on a bigbsy doesn't bother me to restring.
 
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