Re: Gibson "Seconds"
I play an '83 Custom as one of my two main gigging guitars. Yes, they did do seconds back then. They started trashing them to make a point about quality when the new guy took over.
I wouldn't worry about it being a second, as long as it is not due to a warped neck or defective truss rod or neck joint. I'd worry more about the fact that it is an '83. The Gibsons of that time are generally crappy by today's standards, but they can look good from a distance, can play well, and are affordable. They make good bases for modification. And IME, they need sonic modification big time.
My '83 has a three-piece maple neck (plus the ears) with no volute, and a three-piece maple top. You can see the lines at the glue joints even through the thick black paint. It also seems to have a one-piece body, since I cannot see any similar glue joints on the back of the guitar. Pancake construction was gone by that point, so you get a 7- or-8-piece guitar instead of a 9-piece guitar. Whoopee!
The tops are shorter than they are today. And the arch is carved very poorly, so that there is little "moat" next to the binding, a gradual slope upward (hardly an "arch"), and kind of a "mesa" on the top...and the bridge leans backward in comparison to the neck set angle (i.e. it sits parallel to the back of the guitar, not to the fingerboard, like it should).
I don't mind the maple neck, or the fact that it is three piece. Mahogany looks much better to me as a wood, but we are talking about a guitar that is slathered with black paint here, so who cares? Actually, a three piece neck is how most acoustic guitar building books I have read say to make a neck for a steel-stringed guitar. A three-piece maple neck is more stable, and is less likely to snap the head off in an accident than a one-piece mahogany neck.
As for the tone with the maple neck, that is debatable. The tone is definitely different. Most will say that a maple neck and/or ebony board will make tone brighter, but based on my experience, I would say that the maple with an ebony board on that heavy solid body is a treble sucker. My guitar was all mud with any humbucker I tried, no matter how under-wound it was or how I set it up. It took single coils to get the thing to speak. Hard to say what the exact culprit was, though. I firmly believe that it depends more on individual pieces of wood than on generalizations based on species. However, I've never played a Norlin LP Custom that wasn't Mudsville. Great for low- to-moderate-volume jazz; terrible for rock-n-roll unless absolutely cranked. Deluxes handled the Norlin construction tactics better IMO. Much more suitable pickups to the pieced-together boat anchors of guitars that LPs were at that time.
The guitar has a very thin neck front to back, and has the fretless wonder treatment. Wide, very low frets. I like thick necks for the most part, but this is a fast guitar to play. And it looks killer. Only Gibson Custom I'd have been able to afford any time soon, so I grabbed it for $1,000 out the door, a good chunk of which was covered by the trade in of a Studio.
If it were me, if I liked the feel of the neck, and if there were no major defects, I would probably pay $400 or less for that guitar, or just let it pass. Value is a subjective thing. Others might pay more. Others might not even take it as a gift.