Vincent Vespa
New member
Do any of you guys know how I can make my own instrument cables for my guitar. I've always been interested in doing this since I'm a guy who loves to make my own stuff as much as possible.
How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
- Thread starter Vincent Vespa
- Start date
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
This is a useful skill - and one which can save you money. I’ve always made my own. Good cables in the UK seem way overpriced.
For a guitar cable you will need qty 2 ¼ (6.35mm) TRS Mono Jacks and a length of 6.35mm instrument cable. Cable should have a single, stranded core and should be well shielded.
Here’s a brief guide.
Disassemble/unscrew a jack socket
Usually plugs comprise of the jack socket barrel, metal/plastic casing and spring. If the casing is metal, then there should also be an insulation tube which pops over the wiring to prevent shorts with the casing.
You will be able to see the solder 2 tabs - 1 tab for the tip, 1 tab for the shield. If you’re unsure, there are usually holes which will give you an indication. You could also use a continuity meter to test which tabs link to where.
The tip is normally centred on the jack socket barrel. The shield is normally located near the strain relief jaws.
Next you need to strip the cable.
There are specific tools for this but I've always used a sharp stanley razor to nick the outer sheath all the way round – watch you don’t cut through to the shield as you can easily cut though it in error. You can then usually pull off the outer sheath. As a general rule remove approx 1” of sheath.
This will reveal the next layer
A copper shield layer which is comprised of several fine strands. you need to unwrap from the core and twist it to form a stranded wire.
In turn this reveals the inner insulated core.
Next, cut away 5mm of insulation from the core.
You will be left with something like this...
Now tin the core and shield, and solder the core to the tip of the plug, and the screen to the shield of the plug.
Finish by clamping the cable into the plug’s strain relief to hold it in place and prevent pull on the solder joins.
Screw the plug together, and test using a continuity meter.
Do both ends and you're done.
In principal, that's it. However, plugs vary in design and getting the right lengths of core and screen takes practice and experience. Thankfully guitar cable and jacks are relatively cheap so you can afford to practice.
I’ve assumed that you know that basics of soldering – but I can give you tips for that if need be.
I would recommend Van Damme guitar cable for best results - you can get various lengths/colours on ebay.
Jack plugs vary in quality. Don’t get the cheapest – they break easily. However I wouldn’t advise going for the most expensive – you won’t be able to hear the difference. Some of the more expensive switchcraft plugs are a pain to solder!!
oed:
I hope this helps; Let me know if you need more.
Good luck - post your results.
Ry
This is a useful skill - and one which can save you money. I’ve always made my own. Good cables in the UK seem way overpriced.
For a guitar cable you will need qty 2 ¼ (6.35mm) TRS Mono Jacks and a length of 6.35mm instrument cable. Cable should have a single, stranded core and should be well shielded.
Here’s a brief guide.
Disassemble/unscrew a jack socket
Usually plugs comprise of the jack socket barrel, metal/plastic casing and spring. If the casing is metal, then there should also be an insulation tube which pops over the wiring to prevent shorts with the casing.
You will be able to see the solder 2 tabs - 1 tab for the tip, 1 tab for the shield. If you’re unsure, there are usually holes which will give you an indication. You could also use a continuity meter to test which tabs link to where.
The tip is normally centred on the jack socket barrel. The shield is normally located near the strain relief jaws.
Next you need to strip the cable.
There are specific tools for this but I've always used a sharp stanley razor to nick the outer sheath all the way round – watch you don’t cut through to the shield as you can easily cut though it in error. You can then usually pull off the outer sheath. As a general rule remove approx 1” of sheath.
This will reveal the next layer
A copper shield layer which is comprised of several fine strands. you need to unwrap from the core and twist it to form a stranded wire.
In turn this reveals the inner insulated core.
Next, cut away 5mm of insulation from the core.
You will be left with something like this...
Now tin the core and shield, and solder the core to the tip of the plug, and the screen to the shield of the plug.
Finish by clamping the cable into the plug’s strain relief to hold it in place and prevent pull on the solder joins.
Screw the plug together, and test using a continuity meter.
Do both ends and you're done.
In principal, that's it. However, plugs vary in design and getting the right lengths of core and screen takes practice and experience. Thankfully guitar cable and jacks are relatively cheap so you can afford to practice.
I’ve assumed that you know that basics of soldering – but I can give you tips for that if need be.
I would recommend Van Damme guitar cable for best results - you can get various lengths/colours on ebay.
Jack plugs vary in quality. Don’t get the cheapest – they break easily. However I wouldn’t advise going for the most expensive – you won’t be able to hear the difference. Some of the more expensive switchcraft plugs are a pain to solder!!
oed:I hope this helps; Let me know if you need more.
Good luck - post your results.
Ry
ErikH
Well-known member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
TRS = Tip/Ring/Sleeve. It means "balanced". For this application, he just needs tip/sleeve, no ring.
He also needs plugs, not jacks. The jacks are the female part, the plugs are the male part.
Making your own cables is a great way to get custom lengths that you otherwise cannot find in any stores. I've made a few myself in the past.
TRS = Tip/Ring/Sleeve. It means "balanced". For this application, he just needs tip/sleeve, no ring.
He also needs plugs, not jacks. The jacks are the female part, the plugs are the male part.
Making your own cables is a great way to get custom lengths that you otherwise cannot find in any stores. I've made a few myself in the past.
ratherdashing
Kablamminator
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
There's an eletronics shop here in Vancouver that sells Mogami instrument cable for a buck a foot, as well as Neutrik plugs. I haven't bought a cable in a store in over a year.
In addition to the tips posted above, I'd advise using heat shrink tubing on the tip lug for strain relief and insulation.
Here's a great thread on the BYOC forum with pictures on building cables:
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16532
There's an eletronics shop here in Vancouver that sells Mogami instrument cable for a buck a foot, as well as Neutrik plugs. I haven't bought a cable in a store in over a year.
In addition to the tips posted above, I'd advise using heat shrink tubing on the tip lug for strain relief and insulation.
Here's a great thread on the BYOC forum with pictures on building cables:
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16532
RockStarNick
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
Building your own cables is a great moneysaver. It's actually fun for me, NOW, but in the beginning it was a huge pain in the ass.
I reccomend buying an extra plug or two and some cheap cable to practice on, before you go wiring up some gold plated nuetriks with mogami.
Make sure you have
a. A Soldering iron that is 40W or higher. Trying to do it with a 25 watter has resulted in failure for me.
b. Some sort of cable making "jig", with alligator clams, that can act as a 3rd, and sometimes 4th, hand. Making cables without this is a HUGE pain.
Building your own cables is a great moneysaver. It's actually fun for me, NOW, but in the beginning it was a huge pain in the ass.
I reccomend buying an extra plug or two and some cheap cable to practice on, before you go wiring up some gold plated nuetriks with mogami.
Make sure you have
a. A Soldering iron that is 40W or higher. Trying to do it with a 25 watter has resulted in failure for me.
b. Some sort of cable making "jig", with alligator clams, that can act as a 3rd, and sometimes 4th, hand. Making cables without this is a HUGE pain.
tone4days
Heel Whacker
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
yup, mogami plus neutrik ftw ... and erik's correction is correct ... you only need TRS if you have a stereo application (like mine with piezo and magnetic outs from the guitar on the same cable) ... and yup, a jig to hold it all is a real timesaver ... jig holds the cable and jack ... one hand holds the solder, the other holds the iron
yup, mogami plus neutrik ftw ... and erik's correction is correct ... you only need TRS if you have a stereo application (like mine with piezo and magnetic outs from the guitar on the same cable) ... and yup, a jig to hold it all is a real timesaver ... jig holds the cable and jack ... one hand holds the solder, the other holds the iron
Vincent Vespa
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
Well, alrighty then. I'll try this once I get some extra cash and I have some spare time. Thanks guys!
Well, alrighty then. I'll try this once I get some extra cash and I have some spare time. Thanks guys!
Northwinds
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
I see some references to how making your own saves you money, how? The cable itself, quality connectors and time involved seem to me to be more costly over time
I buy Moster Cables and am good to go forever, if they go bad, I get a free replacements. Can't beat that with a stick
I see some references to how making your own saves you money, how? The cable itself, quality connectors and time involved seem to me to be more costly over time
I buy Moster Cables and am good to go forever, if they go bad, I get a free replacements. Can't beat that with a stick
lpmarshall
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
There are plenty of people who don't buy Monster because of their business practices.
Just like making a guitar or pedal, by making your own you get to choose which parts you want.
There are plenty of people who don't buy Monster because of their business practices.
Just like making a guitar or pedal, by making your own you get to choose which parts you want.
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
There's something to be said about about a lifetime warranty, that I won't argue. But let's consider the relative costs. A 12' Monster brand instrument cable from Guitar Center is what, $19.95 before tax?
From Redco Audio, you can buy Mogami cable for $0.73 a foot. So 12' * $0.73 = $8.76 before tax. Let's add a couple Neutrik NP2X-B connectors at $3 each. We're now up to $14.76 cost in parts before tax. All that's left to do now is assemble the cable. For $5.14 less, we've made our own cable that is just as good, if not better than a Monster cable of the same length. I don't count the cost of the solder used, for it is negligible when we consider that a simple roll of 60/40 tin/lead solder can be had for a couple dollars and gives us enough solder to make hundreds of cables. I likewise don't count the cost of a soldering iron either, because that's something I already had from installing the pickups into my guitars. If you don't have a soldering iron, getting a good one, or even a cheapie from Radio Shack and learning how to use it is something that pays for itself quickly.
"But my lifetime warranty! If your homemade cable fails, who's going to replace it for you? Hah!" Well, if your cable fails (and if you did decent job of assembly, it shouldn't), you should be able to repair it as well. Now, obviously major abuse of a cable, deliberate or not, will eventually damage it beyond repair. With the homemade cable, you will be SOL and have to eat the cost of making a new one. But I doubt Monster warrants their cables against failure caused by damage born of abuse, in which case, you'd have to eat the cost of a replacement cable as well. If Monster honors warranty claims on cables that have obviously been destroyed by abuse, then you sir have a sweet gig going there and I would milk it for all it's worth were I in your shoes.
There's something to be said about about a lifetime warranty, that I won't argue. But let's consider the relative costs. A 12' Monster brand instrument cable from Guitar Center is what, $19.95 before tax?
From Redco Audio, you can buy Mogami cable for $0.73 a foot. So 12' * $0.73 = $8.76 before tax. Let's add a couple Neutrik NP2X-B connectors at $3 each. We're now up to $14.76 cost in parts before tax. All that's left to do now is assemble the cable. For $5.14 less, we've made our own cable that is just as good, if not better than a Monster cable of the same length. I don't count the cost of the solder used, for it is negligible when we consider that a simple roll of 60/40 tin/lead solder can be had for a couple dollars and gives us enough solder to make hundreds of cables. I likewise don't count the cost of a soldering iron either, because that's something I already had from installing the pickups into my guitars. If you don't have a soldering iron, getting a good one, or even a cheapie from Radio Shack and learning how to use it is something that pays for itself quickly.
"But my lifetime warranty! If your homemade cable fails, who's going to replace it for you? Hah!" Well, if your cable fails (and if you did decent job of assembly, it shouldn't), you should be able to repair it as well. Now, obviously major abuse of a cable, deliberate or not, will eventually damage it beyond repair. With the homemade cable, you will be SOL and have to eat the cost of making a new one. But I doubt Monster warrants their cables against failure caused by damage born of abuse, in which case, you'd have to eat the cost of a replacement cable as well. If Monster honors warranty claims on cables that have obviously been destroyed by abuse, then you sir have a sweet gig going there and I would milk it for all it's worth were I in your shoes.
BTMN
LifeIsGoodologist
Zerberus
Baron Von Shred
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
See also: Srtgedivers, the cable´s worst nightmare. I used All sorts of cables over het years and at some point settled on Armored Cables. Usually duct taped to the stage.
The don´t ask questions on trade in for replacement. I used Monster for teh longest time because of this before I finally went wireless and switched to armored cables for home and impromptu use.
In theory I still own 3 studio 1000s, in practice I don´t plan on getting new ones because they say "Monster" on them
See also: Srtgedivers, the cable´s worst nightmare. I used All sorts of cables over het years and at some point settled on Armored Cables. Usually duct taped to the stage.
The don´t ask questions on trade in for replacement. I used Monster for teh longest time because of this before I finally went wireless and switched to armored cables for home and impromptu use.
In theory I still own 3 studio 1000s, in practice I don´t plan on getting new ones because they say "Monster" on them
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
Thanks for putting me straight Eric - obviously I didnt read it through properly before submitting. :ban:
RyUK
Thanks for putting me straight Eric - obviously I didnt read it through properly before submitting. :ban:
RyUK
super rad stuff
Skaforlifeologist
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
cool thread. now, who's got a link to get some good connector-less cable(preferably mogami)?:naughty:
cool thread. now, who's got a link to get some good connector-less cable(preferably mogami)?:naughty:
Northwinds
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
I certainly meant no offense and regardinding Monster's warranty, well for one, I don't abuse cables so that is not a worry. I also saw someone reference the cost of a 12' cable in comparison to Monster. I only buy 26' cables, I think I paid $21.99???? and that was a few years ago. Since then, I have not had to buy another cables and I have returned at least 5. As soona sthey start making any noise, they are replaced, no hassles at all
I commend anyone who makes their own stuff. The cost savings may not really be there but there is a certain amount of personal satisfaction
Lately I play wireless but I still use cables, probably always will occasionally
I certainly meant no offense and regardinding Monster's warranty, well for one, I don't abuse cables so that is not a worry. I also saw someone reference the cost of a 12' cable in comparison to Monster. I only buy 26' cables, I think I paid $21.99???? and that was a few years ago. Since then, I have not had to buy another cables and I have returned at least 5. As soona sthey start making any noise, they are replaced, no hassles at all
I commend anyone who makes their own stuff. The cost savings may not really be there but there is a certain amount of personal satisfaction
Lately I play wireless but I still use cables, probably always will occasionally
The Golden Boy
Fleecy Sweaterologist
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
First- around the turn of the century I bought 3 21' Monster cables. The least expensive of the 3 was like $50.
They were noisy and crappy. I felt that, not only did I pay WAY too much for these cables (which I supposedly was "upgrading") but also the cables were inferior to my old "cheap" cables. They were noisy, whenever you'd move or step on the cables they audibly crackled. I couldn't use them for recording. (ironically, the "cheap" Monster had the least noise) Another thing about Monsters is that the ends are a little larger than 1/4" so that's nice that they don't fall out as easily- on the other hand, it bends the tongue on your jacks... I kept those cables at my rehearsal studio and in situations where they "might" disappear... where they steadily got stolen over the years. The only thing I miss about them is the money I wasted on them. I'm still regularly using the $20 cables I bought in the mid 90s.
You're saying you don't abuse them but you've replaced the cables 5 times. I don't baby my cables, but I've been using the same ones for round about 15 years. No way in hell will I ever buy a Monster brand cable evAr again.
First- around the turn of the century I bought 3 21' Monster cables. The least expensive of the 3 was like $50.
They were noisy and crappy. I felt that, not only did I pay WAY too much for these cables (which I supposedly was "upgrading") but also the cables were inferior to my old "cheap" cables. They were noisy, whenever you'd move or step on the cables they audibly crackled. I couldn't use them for recording. (ironically, the "cheap" Monster had the least noise) Another thing about Monsters is that the ends are a little larger than 1/4" so that's nice that they don't fall out as easily- on the other hand, it bends the tongue on your jacks... I kept those cables at my rehearsal studio and in situations where they "might" disappear... where they steadily got stolen over the years. The only thing I miss about them is the money I wasted on them. I'm still regularly using the $20 cables I bought in the mid 90s.
You're saying you don't abuse them but you've replaced the cables 5 times. I don't baby my cables, but I've been using the same ones for round about 15 years. No way in hell will I ever buy a Monster brand cable evAr again.
threechordcharlie
RedTruckologist
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
True, But I consider that MY TIME is worth a lot more than $5.14. Now, if you are doing it because you like to piddle on things, that's one thing. If you are trying to save money, how much is Your Time worth to you?
True, But I consider that MY TIME is worth a lot more than $5.14. Now, if you are doing it because you like to piddle on things, that's one thing. If you are trying to save money, how much is Your Time worth to you?
Ayrton
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
Making your cables is the way to go, both from a cost stand point and quality.
You can build a premium cable for the same money you would spend for a "name" cable of lesser quality. The time factor is not really an issue because once you build them, your are done for years. Well built cables will last even under abusive situations.
Making your cables is the way to go, both from a cost stand point and quality.
You can build a premium cable for the same money you would spend for a "name" cable of lesser quality. The time factor is not really an issue because once you build them, your are done for years. Well built cables will last even under abusive situations.
GuitarGuy503
New member
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
I also don't see how making your own cables saves you money. After buying everything, and investing the time to make the cable, I say it's more trouble than its worth.
I have had the same Monster Cable for 8 years now and have never had any problems with it. When I'm plugged in there is absolutely no background noise. I have replaced my Monster Cable once and only because the lid of my guitar case slammed down on it and put a crimp in it. As said if you like fiddling with things for fun, by all means make your own cable. If you are strictly doing it in attempt to save money it's definately not worth it. I payed $25.00 for my Monster Cable and will never have to buy another guitar cable. $25.00 well spent IMO.
I also don't see how making your own cables saves you money. After buying everything, and investing the time to make the cable, I say it's more trouble than its worth.
I have had the same Monster Cable for 8 years now and have never had any problems with it. When I'm plugged in there is absolutely no background noise. I have replaced my Monster Cable once and only because the lid of my guitar case slammed down on it and put a crimp in it. As said if you like fiddling with things for fun, by all means make your own cable. If you are strictly doing it in attempt to save money it's definately not worth it. I payed $25.00 for my Monster Cable and will never have to buy another guitar cable. $25.00 well spent IMO.
Last edited:
ratherdashing
Kablamminator
Re: How do I make my own Instrument Cables?
Personally I like the ability to have cables that are the exact length I want them to be, with the exact ends I need. This is especially important when you have a big pedal board.
Personally I like the ability to have cables that are the exact length I want them to be, with the exact ends I need. This is especially important when you have a big pedal board.
