How long does it take you to tune a Floyd Rose or floating tremolo?

As far as the bar angle goes, remember, the Floyd was made to do outrageous dive bombs. The closer the bar to the body, the more difficult it is to slacken the strings.

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No, it’s good now, I mean with the lighter springs there’s still plenty of room to tighten more.

These "reds" are way heavier. They're doing what four "normal" springs couldn't do. (Sorry. Maybe that's not what you meant.)

As far as the bar angle goes, remember, the Floyd was made to do outrageous dive bombs. The closer the bar to the body, the more difficult it is to slacken the strings.

Good point. That's probably why I'm going to sell this guitar. I just don't do tremolo much. On the other hand, this thing sounds sweet. Original Ibby pups, as far as I can tell.
 
What pickups came stock?

I'm not sure. I only looked at the bottom of the bridge humbucker. It's completely blank. No markings. No nothing. I assume all these pups are stock. But they sound decent. The tone control is a push-pull that splits the bridge humbucker. And then there's a factory "blower" switch that does the bridge straight to the vol/tone.
 
Nice. You should be able to get a few bucks for it. Especially if it turns out it's an Infinity 1&2 set.

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Well, I'm sure that there probably is. I had an infinity 3&4 in my Ibanez RG-120. I think that the name was printed on the pickup. Not sure if it was the same with the 1&2.
Maybe someone wiser in Ibanez lore can chime in.

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In this case (with these red springs at this tuning and string gauge, assuming you are settled on all those);
I would run all 3 springs straight, and then screw the claw in more to match tension. I know they are long screws, but I like them in more.
By running 3 straight you would have approx 1/2- 2/3 as much screw showing as now. Much better IMO.

The edge-pro arms are much flatter, as are the OFR push-ins. These are closer to the standard OFR.
 
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I agree with Demanic about the bar angle. You COULD bend it but if it were me, I wouldn’t worry about it. I’d much rather have a bar with the extra travel room than not enough.
I have a house project to finish this morning but later I’ll take pics of 3 of my Edge equipped guitar for comparison.
 
Thanks Dave, but this thing is pretty much settled in. I think I'm going to leave her alone. (Except play her.) The "problem" is, I fall in love with these things, and then don't want to sell them.

I agree with Demanic about the bar angle. You COULD bend it but if it were me, I wouldn’t worry about it. I’d much rather have a bar with the extra travel room than not enough.
I have a house project to finish this morning but later I’ll take pics of 3 of my Edge equipped guitar for comparison.

Thanks Gtrjunior. I'll look for it. :)
 
@Artietoo

Here’s a few pics of my various Edge trem guitars.

RG Prestige. I think this is an Edge Pro, not sure though. If I’m wrong and anybody wants to let me know what it is, feel free.
This trem arm is what I would consider low. It easily hits the volume knob without much travel distance.
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Here is an RG 565 with an original Edge.
Even though the bar looks super high, it’s not. Imo it’s perfect. Lots of travel distance and it is right where you need it to be to grab it.
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And lastly here’s an Ibby 7 string. I think this may be a LoPro Edge but again I’m not certain and I’d love to know exactly what it is.
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And here is a pic of the bars from the Prestige and the RG 565.
They are exactly the same.
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Thanks for those pics. That's pretty much what mine looks like, so I guess it's set up correctly. It's just different from a Fender.
 
Usually takes me about 20 minutes or so if I rush. I block the bridge and take off all the strings then clean the fingerboard with Dunlop 01 02 and polish the frets everytime I change strings. I change strings just once every 3 months on my Floyd equipped guitars.
 
@Artietoo

Here’s a few pics of my various Edge trem guitars.

Those edge pro guitars (first pic) may have a problem. If that was an edge or lopro guitar, if the knife edges were that low, there would be serious clearance issue with the trem. IOW, it looks like the bridge is recessed too far into the body, and it looks like the trem is angled forward to compensate, which is why you have such little bar clearance.

I had a LoPro ibby plekked, and the new fret profile put the bridge too far into the body, to the point that there was virtually zero back pull. I had to make a neck shim to regain height. Because of the AANJ, you cant just install a normal shim, it needs to be shaped to the entire cavity to raise the neck, not change the angle. I would recommend you do the same, raising the bridge, and allowing you to angle it back and gain some bar clearance. Bending the bar is not the right solution.

That seven string is not a lo-pro. idk what it is.
 
Those edge pro guitars (first pic) may have a problem. If that was an edge or lopro guitar, if the knife edges were that low, there would be serious clearance issue with the trem. IOW, it looks like the bridge is recessed too far into the body, and it looks like the trem is angled forward to compensate, which is why you have such little bar clearance.

I had a LoPro ibby plekked, and the new fret profile put the bridge too far into the body, to the point that there was virtually zero back pull. I had to make a neck shim to regain height. Because of the AANJ, you cant just install a normal shim, it needs to be shaped to the entire cavity to raise the neck, not change the angle. I would recommend you do the same, raising the bridge, and allowing you to angle it back and gain some bar clearance. Bending the bar is not the right solution.

That seven string is not a lo-pro. idk what it is.

In those pictures above the original edge is set basically correct, The edge-pro is not. That's probably why the bar seems too flat for you (Gtrjonior),
If you correct the edge-pro to flat then the posts/action will then be too low and need raised to compensate.
https://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/set...to%20see%20it.

Ahh....ok. I’ will take another look at it. Funny enough, the pro trem was professionally” set up and the original was set up by me.

What I will do is tighten the claw and raise the post studs until the baseplate is level and just above the rout. I guess the pro baseplate needs to be more level, similar to an OFR baseplate then? (The edge original baseplate definitely has an upward slope to it when it is adjusted correctly.)
I suppose with the tail end sticking up like that it kinda defeats the low in lo-pro. Lmao
Sound like a good starting point?

Thanks guys
 
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Any suggestions on a shim material?

I used a thin piece of aluminum. A thin wood shim would too easily break.

It did not hurt the tone of the guitar. You might be able to use a credit card but I dont think it will be big enough.

This is for AANJ. If its a block joint you can use whatever.
 
I used a thin piece of aluminum. A thin wood shim would too easily break.

It did not hurt the tone of the guitar. You might be able to use a credit card but I dont think it will be big enough.

This is for AANJ. If its a block joint you can use whatever.

Yes, this guitar has an aanj, which I love the design of.
I have a package of Floyd nut shims I could try if needed.
 
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