NGD - Yamaha SG1000
- Thread starter fretburner
- Start date
TiteBond would only be useful if you could open up the joint and clean it out to bare wood...it's not going to penetrate into that thin crack and it won't stick if it can't find clean wood (it doesn't stick at all to painted surfaces or surfaces covered with gunk and goop accumulated in the crack over the years). Might as well fill it with putty or chewing gum.
Superglue would be the ONLY recommended glue for THIS job. Gradually build it up with thin layers of thin superglue allowing it to cure between each application (if you try to fill the entire crack in one thick application, the deepest part may not cure entirely).
Superglue would be the ONLY recommended glue for THIS job. Gradually build it up with thin layers of thin superglue allowing it to cure between each application (if you try to fill the entire crack in one thick application, the deepest part may not cure entirely).
fretburner
Well-known member
My luthier won't tell me what glue it is he's using...
but he was using something like a fine tip applicator which I see in some "precision super glue" in hardware stores which is why I said "I think it is a super glue of some sort"
If the guitar wasn't a pancake body with a 3pc back and 2pc top, I would have told him to force the issue and clamp it until it closes... He would surely use some wood glue for it... But I think because of the construction of the SG1000, I think it's not worth it, and I just wanted him to put the brakes on the crack
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Oh give me a break! Just do some research on the properties of Titebond and superglue...their strengths and weaknesses, then get back to me with your condescending remarks. Perhaps you'll eat enough humble pie so you won't need to get back to me at all.
Yes, you are correct to assume he's using superglue. (For sure, titebond, or other wood glues won't go through those tiny microtips/pipettes and they won't penetrate that crack).
You are also correct that with the 2pc top and 3pc back the joints won't line up and it's not worth it/appropriate to put clamping pressure on it.
It sounds like he knows what he's doing and you'll end up with a well repaired instrument when he's through.
Like I said, I wouldn't have gone to all the trouble/time/expense associated with this guitar, but if it pleases you, especially if this is a model you've really wanted for some time, then kudos to you. I hope it will bring you much joy.
Securb
One of Jerry's Kids
That is awesome news. Does he have a buffing wheel in his shop? If so I would ask him to give the guitar a nice shine or do it yourself.
fretburner
Well-known member
I don't think he has.
I was thinking of getting a small, wireless car polisher and doing it myself?
Any of you folks tried that?
I've tried some turtle wax rubbing compound and scratch and swirl remover... and it actually works. But I did it by hand.
I wonder if using a car polisher with wool (instead of sponge)?
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fretburner
Well-known member
I just don't want the crack to get worse. I really don't mind having that gap in there.
Hopefully the set up including intonation will be great (my luthier usually does great). Saddles don't move as easily as my Gibson TOMs.
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Securb
One of Jerry's Kids
If you are not familiar with powered buffers, I would be careful. You can burn through the clear or even the paint. I would suggest doing it by hand and using a light rubbing compound, and then polishing afterward. I would figure out what kind of paint is on the guitar and use a corresponding product for that finish. Car polish is usually safe but do a little research first.
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