Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?


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Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I use the G&ls with Leo's DF Vibrato. Proper setup is for the bridge to float 1/8" to 3/16" above the body, with the bridge plate parallel to the plane of the body. I love these guitars--great vibrato.

I set my old 1960 Strat to float, with the back end raised up about 1/8" off the body, so I could pull up on the vibrato. I always liked how Jimi used his. Stayed in tune just fine.

Bill
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I blocked my CS '56 RI Strat a few years back and hated it. It killed any resonance from the instrument and the notes sounded dull. Put it back to floating and it was an instant improvement. I know some guys like Eric Clapton prefer hardtails on theirs, but my experience with it wasn't a good one at all.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I'm weird, I prefer strat trems floating and Floyds decked.... :)

To me the sound and feel of a 6-screw strat bridge is perfect.
I set them up to go up a minor third on the G-string.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I use the G&ls with Leo's DF Vibrato. Proper setup is for the bridge to float 1/8" to 3/16" above the body, with the bridge plate parallel to the plane of the body. I love these guitars--great vibrato.

I set my old 1960 Strat to float, with the back end raised up about 1/8" off the body, so I could pull up on the vibrato. I always liked how Jimi used his. Stayed in tune just fine.

Bill

Don't you mean 1/8" or 3/32"?
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Nope. The old spec on the DF Vibrato was the bridge plate parallel and 3/16" above the body, the bottom of the high E-string saddle 1/8" above the plate, and the others radiused to match the contour of the board. Of couse the old 3-bolt necks had the micro-tilt neck adjustment and made set-up a breeze. They changed to a 4-bolt neck in 1997, but the setup specs were the same.

The new version of the DF Vibrato is spec'd at 1/8" above the body.

I can't remember the spec for the string height at the 12 fret, but once the DF Vibrato is set to spec and the string height spec is met, there is enough room for further adjustment of the overall height to satisfy the need of most players without interfering with the action of the DFV. The geometry of the neck pocket is different on the G&L guitars than on your typical Fender, and the setup method is thus different.

Okay? :)

Bill
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Decked! Full body resonance taking advantage of my brass trem block and steel trem blocks in all 4 of my Strats. :cool2:
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Blocked or had the bridge on the deck for years. However, I have hardtails, so recently I refloated my whammy, really enjoying it. Three springs, use it for a shimmer type sound.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Decked with 5 springs. If I were to actually use the tremolo, then floating with 3 springs.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Decked.
Floating always looks weird to me.. like they weren't designed to do that. Down-only is enough for me. I use 5 raw vintage springs, which make the trem super responsive.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I don't have a Fender strat but i have a Korean SE PRS Cu24 & Godin Session. The SE has the prs 6 screw pivot trem while the Godin has 2 point modern vintage trem. The SE is floating at about 2mm from the front side & 4mm from the back side. The Godin is floating at about 0.5mm in the front side & ~2mm at the back side.

Decking the SE made it sound bland and deadish. Setting it to PRS specs didn't work for me either. I tried setting it up to fender specs, didn't work for me either.
The Godin had no factory spec info available anywhere for me. By factory default the trem was decked, i tried setting it up like a Fender start, it didn't help. So after experimenting a lot with that I ended up with something where the the body resonated/vibrated as much as the neck did. I guess I prefer string heights of 2mm on both of my guitars at the twelfth fret.

Anyways, lubricating string contact point at the nut, string T's and saddle area with chap-stick reduced tuning issues considerably for me. Only way to have it go completely out of tune is to try some wacky Vai stuff, otherwise for the stuff I play it stays in tune very nicely. Besides I like the way double string bends sound with the floating trem setup.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Mines decked on 5 springs, does a lovely job, considering its an old pig of a strat!
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I like the twang and pop I get from the tremolo floating, but I also have a Tremol-No installed for when I need the fixed bridge for changing tunings. It does gain a bit more sustain and thump when I set it to fixed, but it's not a noticeable enough of a different for me to use it for anything other than to change tunings on the fly.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

I have kind of a half and half with my strats...Some are decked and some are pretty much Fender factory spec and one has a FR.
 
Re: Strat Guys....Bridge...Floating Or Decked?

Not either. Not floating, not decked. I guess blocked? I have the bridge positioned about 1/8 inch off the rear deck so that, along with the paint under the 6 screw mounting area removed, none if it touches paint.

I positioned two oak blocks on each side of the trem block, sanded and sized to be completely flush with both the trem block and the body caivity walls, where I also removed the paint. Because the trem block is not perfectly parallel with the caivty wall, each oak block is slightly angled. Kinda tough to sand to the right dimensions and then position both, but I got it to work. Each oak block is as big as will fit along the non-curved cavity walls and extend down to just before touching the plastic back plate.

I left two springs attached to keep the grounding and any possible ringing that may still occur like the original setup, but I doubt much actually does.

This is on a new MIM alder strat that's pretty bright. The bridge buckers I was testing seemed weak, non-sustaining, and undefined. These changes clearly increased sustain and clarity (very very moderately though, not like some huge difference), and I swear I detect a slight output increase, but that could be just perception from the sustain and clarity improvements. And now the guitar resonates much more and through the center to the neck. Before it felt like a lot was lost through the floating trail from the bridge to the claw. I did lose a bit of that strat ringiness, but some of it is still there. Overall it's a more focused and controlled sound, with enough strat vibe. Before and I after, I spent time with the guitar hanging from a wall neck mount and just strumming in different ways and lightly feeling what was going on all over it. With the changes more resonance finds it's way through the two body horns and to the neck joint, wiht less going on around that cavity. Again, not huge differences, but enough to notice.

No clue what exact change made the differences, and maybe it's just the sum of them, but they are noticeable and in the direction I wanted. And no clue if avoiding the deck made any difference, because I didn't try decking it, but it doesn't matter now because I'm happy with where I'm at.

Now I need to address the rattling saddles, or something around that area, which has always been there. Some of the cheap intonation screws seem to fit too loosely, and, even with the tesnsion of strings holding the saddles down, it seems llike they are vibrating in their channels. Or maybe something further back into the trem block. I've been eyeing new saddles anyway, so we'll see if that helps.
 
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