Where you do stand on wrapping strings with locking tuners?

I bend the strings before cutting them. I was told decades ago this keeps the core of the string from slipping inside the wind. It was suggested this gives better tuning stability. My OCD makes me also bend the non wound stings. Not sure if it really does anything but it can't hurt.

ainrroY.jpg
 
About 1/2 a wrap on mine. That's just how it worked out for me.

I'm in the habit of setting the holes to about a 45 degree angle, so new strings feed in from the 10:30 or 2:30 position.
It's a habit I developed long before locking tuners - or even locking nuts - were a thing.
Never really gave any thought to doing it differently in the 80s when locking tuners came on my first PRS.

But now that Sirion has pointed it out, I'm going to start putting a wrap or two on when I restring my Floydcasters.
Yep, Floyds only seem to break right at the bridge and that's a handy tip.

I hardly ever break strings actually; have to keep careful track of the flight hours since my sweat is unusually corrosive.
Sets are changed after three stage hours (or six in rehearsal or jams) and strings get wiped down immediately after playing.
Even so, breaks still happen occasionally. And when it happens on a Floyd, dropping a fresh one on isn't quick & easy.
 
Just my opinion, Keisel and Paul Reed Smith are using locking tuners with Floyds because it's good for the profit margin. It's surely not because they found it necessary to enhance performance. Redundancy is for airplanes and so on. Not really needed on guitars.
 
I use a couple wraps on the small plains and just short of a full wrap on the largest string. I'm a "progressive rapper".

A couple of my floyd guitars came stock with lockers. I'm fine with them, but if I had to pick now it would be standard non-locking for floyds.
 
I bend the strings before cutting them. I was told decades ago this keeps the core of the string from slipping inside the wind. It was suggested this gives better tuning stability. My OCD makes me also bend the non wound stings. Not sure if it really does anything but it can't hurt.

ainrroY.jpg

I ALWAYS do this (clip and bend the string more than 90 degrees) to protect hands and eyes and keeping the cores from slipping.
 

Great pic to explain my method and love the bend cores technique

My guitars with lockers would look like at least your 3rd and 4th strings at minimum when first tuning up and up to about another 1/2 wrap around the posts. over time as the string stretches, I'd say most of mine end up with 3/4 to 1-1/4 wraps overtime.

But the your 6th string (Big E) is bordering on the Psycho territory I am referring to :lmao: (It's a joke kids). As when the string isn't bent to an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) from the string plane -the locker mechanism itself is getting direct pull from tension instead of against the machine head -it can slip over time.
 
I've never warmed up to locking tuners. It makes me happy to see those perfectly neat coils wrapped around regular tuners . . .and if you wrap the strings correctly when changing them the locking tuners add zero additional stability. Also, anyone who leaves untrimmed string ends is worse than hitler. String ends should be kept shorter than 4 mm from the post.
 
I've never warmed up to locking tuners. It makes me happy to see those perfectly neat coils wrapped around regular tuners . . .and if you wrap the strings correctly when changing them the locking tuners add zero additional stability. Also, anyone who leaves untrimmed string ends is worse than hitler. String ends should be kept shorter than 4 mm from the post.

GuitarStv, you are close to my mission statement. Join my religion of the Wraps!

For non locking -always over under wrap (so the string through the post provides downforce on the wrap) -a tight 2+ wraps for heavy strings and 3-4 for non wound strings.

For Locking -Always at least 3/4 wrap minimum -so the pressure is on the post -not directly on the locking mechanism once the string is locked -prefer 1+ wrap so the string circles the entire post for maximum toanz opportunities.

Always trim strings and fold (especially wound strings) to prevent injury and core slippage.

This is the way.
 
GuitarStv, you are close to my mission statement. Join my religion of the Wraps!

For non locking -always over under wrap (so the string through the post provides downforce on the wrap) -a tight 2+ wraps for heavy strings and 3-4 for non wound strings.

For Locking -Always at least 3/4 wrap minimum -so the pressure is on the post -not directly on the locking mechanism once the string is locked -prefer 1+ wrap so the string circles the entire post for maximum toanz opportunities.

Always trim strings and fold (especially wound strings) to prevent injury and core slippage.

This is the way.

Unfortunately, I am an apostate. No need for the over under crap. Just insert the string, crimp the end, and wind down (about 3-4 wraps on the low E, A, D then 4-6 on the G and then 6-8 wraps on the B and high E . . . strings should look like this when completed and they'll be rock solid with no slipping:
steelstring08b.jpg?itok=SWhSDbxM.jpg

For locking tuners the best string changing practice is to first replace the locking tuners and then change strings correctly as described above. :P
 
Unfortunately, I am an apostate. No need for the over under crap. Just insert the string, crimp the end, and wind down (about 3-4 wraps on the low E, A, D then 4-6 on the G and then 6-8 wraps on the B and high E . . . strings should look like this when completed and they'll be rock solid with no slipping:


For locking tuners the best string changing practice is to first replace the locking tuners and then change strings correctly as described above. :P

Blasphemer!
 


This is clearly the work of an unstable mind.

=)

lol; yeah... I remember a local "guitarist" (hobby musician) who would show up to jams; with all his strings "fastened" like that on the tuners. The guitar was impossible to tune, but he could never figure out "why"; or take any advice /hints about how he had done it :p

"scatterwound" haha ;)
 
Unfortunately, I am an apostate. No need for the over under crap. Just insert the string, crimp the end, and wind down (about 3-4 wraps on the low E, A, D then 4-6 on the G and then 6-8 wraps on the B and high E . . . strings should look like this when completed and they'll be rock solid with no slipping:


For locking tuners the best string changing practice is to first replace the locking tuners and then change strings correctly as described above. :P

This is beautiful and exactly what I do with non locking tuners. Ive never had a problem with but I still bought lo king tuners because .. well, you know, I felt that I needed them.
 
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